All the Designer Debuts to Watch This SS26
Fashion month is here, and SS26 is set to be one of the most dramatic seasons in years. From New York to Paris, the runways will be defined by fresh chapters at some of the biggest names in luxury. Here’s every debut you need to know.
Nicholas Aburn at Area
New York opens with Nicholas Aburn, who takes the reins at Area on September 12. A Central Saint Martins graduate who studied under Louise Wilson, Aburn has worked with Demna at Balenciaga as well as Alexander Wang and Tom Ford. He replaces Area co-founder Piotrek Panszczyk, bringing a sharp new perspective to the cult New York label.
Demna at Gucci
On September 23 in Milan, Demna unveils his first vision for Gucci. After transforming Balenciaga into one of fashion’s most talked-about brands, his pivot to Gucci is already sparking speculation. With nods to Tom Ford’s 90s Gucci teased on social media, his debut promises to redefine one of Italy’s most powerful fashion houses.
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Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander
The following day, September 24, Simone Bellotti makes his debut at Jil Sander. Previously at Bally, and before that 16 years at Gucci, Bellotti succeeds Luke and Lucie Meier. His challenge will be balancing Jil Sander’s minimal heritage with a modern Italian sensibility.
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Dario Vitale at Versace
Versace enters a new era on September 26 as Dario Vitale steps up following Donatella Versace’s transition to brand ambassador after 27 years. Vitale, who spent 15 years under Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu, brings a refined yet subversive eye to a house known for glamour and excess.
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Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta
On September 27, Louise Trotter debuts at Bottega Veneta, becoming the season’s only female creative director. With experience at Carven and a decade at Joseph, she replaces Matthieu Blazy, now at Chanel. Trotter has already teased her hand on the red carpet in Cannes, and her debut promises a quiet, sophisticated reset for the brand.
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Miguel Castro Freitas at Mugler
October 2 in Paris marks Miguel Castro Freitas’ debut at Mugler. A Portuguese designer previously at Sportmax, Castro Freitas also worked with Galliano, Pilati, Elbaz and Simons before being appointed in March. He follows Casey Cadwallader, whose seven-year tenure brought Mugler back into the spotlight.
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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe
On October 3, Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez step into Loewe. With Jonathan Anderson moving to Dior after 11 years, the duo now oversee womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories, marking one of the most significant leadership shifts of the season.
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Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga
October 4 is set for fireworks as Pierpaolo Piccioli unveils his first Balenciaga collection. The revered former Valentino designer, who left the house in 2024, brings romanticism and gravitas to a brand long defined by provocation under Demna. His debut will be one of fashion month’s most scrutinised moments.
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Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier
Dutch designer Duran Lantink shows his first Jean Paul Gaultier collection on October 5. Fresh off winning the Woolmark Prize and known for his experimental approach, Lantink becomes JPG’s first permanent creative director, ending years of guest-led collections. His appointment signals bold change at the iconic Parisian house.
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Matthieu Blazy at Chanel
Fashion month closes with Matthieu Blazy at Chanel on October 6, easily the most high-stakes debut of the year. After redefining Bottega Veneta, Blazy now faces the challenge of writing the next chapter for Chanel. Anticipation is already sky-high, fuelled by red carpet whispers in Venice.
From Aburn’s fresh start at Area to Blazy’s high-pressure Chanel debut, SS26 will be remembered as a season of transformation. These designers are not only taking on legendary houses but reshaping the narrative of contemporary fashion. Over the coming weeks, every runway will add to the story — and collectively, they mark the beginning of a new era.