THE OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN SKELETON

AN OPENWORKED INTERPRETATION IN PINK GOLD FRAMING A BLUE DIAL

Both contemporary and eminently horological by nature, the gold-clad Vacheron Constantin Overseas ultra-thin perpetual calendar is enhanced by a sapphire dial extending an invitation to dive into the heart of its anatomy and explore its ultra-thin entirely skeletonised perpetual calendar Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1.

Ultra-thin watches are part of the grand watchmaking tradition of the Maison. They have always been a sought-after luxury, in a mechanical world where extreme thinness is a symbol of style and elegance. The exceptional slenderness of the case, the meticulous attention to detail, the bold aesthetic choices – this age-old quest inherent to Vacheron Constantin reveals the technical mastery characterising Vacheron Constantin watches. As early as the 1930s, the Maison distinguished itself with ultrathin pocket watches, then in the 1950s with wristwatches that were among the thinnest of their generation. In 2016, the Overseas collection stood out by offering a new aesthetic signature, unprecedented calibres and extreme thinness was naturally part of the adventure, resulting in an ultra-thin Overseas perpetual calendar watch.

AN AWARD-WINNING MODEL

This new skeletonised interpretation in 18K 5N pink gold with a blue dial expands the realm of possibilities. Acknowledged for its technical and innovative character, the model won the Calendar and Astronomy Watch prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2020. In order to keep track of the Gregorian calendar’s distinctive features, a perpetual calendar must be equipped with a mechanical memory of 1,461 days, taking the form of a cam on which, the different monthly durations are duly programmed. The mechanism can thus indicate without any need for correction months of 28, 30 and 31 days, as well as leap years. On the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin model, the day and date display along the horizontal axis is complemented on the vertical axis by the month indication across four years, while the moon-phase indication is symmetrically positioned at 6 o’clock beneath an opaque glass. The next adjustment of the date will only take place in 2100, a secular year divisible by four but not by 400 and therefore not a leap year – another singularity of the Gregorian calendar.

COMPLEXITY BEYOND HOROLOGICAL COMPLICATION

The Manufacture self-winding Calibre 1120 has been chosen to power this complication. This extremely thin movement measuring just 2.45mm thick is already considered a classic in the world of mechanical watches. Complemented by a perpetual calendar module to form a total thickness of 4.05 mm, it nestles at the heart of the 18K 5N pink gold case with a total 8.1mm thickness. Greatly appreciated by collectors for its reliability and performance, Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 has been entirely skeletonised.

Skeletonisation is extremely complex to perform and is indeed a specialised field taught in watchmaking schools. The task consists in open working a mechanical movement by hollowing out its components without compromising their reliability. This quest for transparency coupled with a highflying precision exercise is mastered by only a few watchmakers. All parts of Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 have thus been hollowed out, finished and decorated. The technical and aesthetic attention paid to the architecture of the calibre and to the surface finishes – including those that remain hidden from sight – stems from expertise that the maison have been perfecting for almost 270 years.

HIGH STANDARDS EXPRESSED THROUGH THE SMALLEST DETAILS

The movement has benefited from haute horlogerie finishing work entirely done by hand on all its components, which have been hand-drawn to create a satin-brushed appearance, chamfered to enhance the play of light and given a circular-brushed, sunburst or circular-grained decoration according to their place in the heart of the calibre. The care devoted to these finishes is accentuated by the anthracite grey tone given by NAC (N-acetylcysteine) electrolytic treatment of the main plate, bridges and open-worked oscillating weight shaped like a Maltese cross with a segment in 22K gold. Operating at a rate of 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75 Hz) and endowed with a 40-hour power reserve, the movement can be admired through the sapphire back of the 41.5 mm diameter case. On the dial side, the thin blue calendar display rings and the same colour flange also provide a clear view of the calibre, while ensuring perfect legibility.

ONE TIMEPIECE, THREE STYLES

Thanks to its simple and practical interchangeable bracelet/strap system, the Overseas perpetual calendar ultra-thin skeleton watch can be adapted to any situation. It comes on an 18K 5N pink gold bracelet and is accompanied by two additional calfskin leather and rubber straps, each with an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle.

FROM GEOMETRY TO ARTISTRY

Featuring a robust yet slender design this timepiece echoes the sentiment of the 2024 thematic; From Geometry to Artistry. The extraordinary attention to detail that comprises each Vacheron Constantin timepiece is apparent from the initial sketch. The geometry of the case and calibre start to take form, encompassing even the smallest components. This painstaking care is expressed through the aesthetic choices as well as the meticulous finishing work performed by the artisans at the Swiss Manufacture. All of the elements of a Vacheron Constantin timepiece benefit from this scrupulous attention, even those that remain invisible once the movement has been assembled. A keen eye would notice the contours of the Maison’s maltese cross emblem on the links of the bracelet, the subtle hand-brushed and hand-polished surfaces accentuating the angles. The completed timepiece, with its relaxed elegant feel, is truly a piece of artistry on the wrist.

For more information and a direct introduction to Vacheron Constantin, please contact your Sports World Client Manager, or [email protected].